Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
